Top 10 Cables Tie Hacks and Bodges | Mountain Bike Maintenance


– We love decent hack or bodge at GMBN, especially if they’re trailside-based. And of course, everyone knows
that the ultimate thing to fix anything on your bike with is a cable tie. So here are 10 of the
very best hacks and bodges you can do using cable ties. ♫ Hacks and bodges, hacks
and bodges, hacks and bodges First up, you’ve been
off this massive drop, You land a bit squarely,
you break your saddle, and then it’s flapping
around like a flip-flop. How do you fix it? Easy, cable-tie. Make no mistake, these
are not genuine fixtures, these are hacks and bodges to get yourself off the trails and get home. You’re going to need to replace the saddle when you get home. But you don’t want to ride it like this because it’s going to flap
around and ultimately come off. So you want to line it up as
best as you can on the bike and then simply use cable
ties just to hold it in place. Run a couple around the top here. It’s not going to be the most
comfortable thing to ride, but it’s going to stay in
one piece with any luck. All right, so it looks
a bit like Gonzo’s nose, but it’s going to get you home. Bodge number one. So now you’re at number two. Hammering down a bit of
singletrack, hit a tree, break your brake lever clamp. How do you fix it? Easy, cable ties. So in this case the bolt was broken, so I’m just going to run
a cable tie through here, and a whole bunch of them
around just to keep it in place. So I’m just going to
run a couple around here just to make it as– make
sure it’s fairly secure. I want to run another one
around it just to be safe. Cable tie is king once more. Good to go and hit the trails,
get down to the bottom. Bodge number two. So you’re hammering along
some alpine singletrack, you clout your pedal on
a real big lump of rock, you massively rip the thing off, but your axle’s still exposed. How do you fix it? Easy, cable ties. Okay, so the common
thing on most saw pedals, there will be a retaining
nut holding the pedal onto the axle itself. And if you hit your pedal hard enough, it’s really easy to sheer
that nut straight off. Now I saw this happen
to someone a while ago, they massively ripped their
whole pedal off the axle and they were left with just the spindle. They massively continued their
ride to the top of the climb. Obviously it’s pretty
dangerous to descend like that. So he put the pedal back on
the top, and using cable ties, bodged it onto the crank so
he had a static platform. It meant he couldn’t pedal,
but it did mean he had a nice, safe platform to get down to
the bottom and enjoy his ride. Of course, he had to fix it
when he got to the bottom. In his case, it was just
a little stripped nut. There’s a little eight
mil nut in the end there. Replaced it, it was good to go. Bodge number three, done! So transmission puts
up with a lot of stress when you’re out on a trail. And the rear harbour itself
relies on the pull system, so things are– it’s a one-way ratchet. And every now and then if
your hub’s a bit old or tired, they’re going to give way,
and it will just spin around, which means you got no more gears. How do you fix it? Easy, cable ties. So we’re just going to imagine here that this spins both ways,
so the simple hack for this is cable tying the back
of the set to the spoke so it stops it moving. If you got all the tools
in your riding bag, you probably want to take
your disc off to do this, but I’m just going to try and give it a bit of a
bodge while I’m here. So I just want to carefully
thread the back of the cable tie around the cassette here,
pull that nice and tight. You want to repeat this process
all the way around the wheel until you’ve effectively
locked your cassette to the rear spokes. Of course it is really fiddly
to do this but it does mean you’re going to be able to
lightly pedal your way back to a bike shop or someone that’s going to be able to help you. Your other option, of course, is walk. Nothing wrong with walking if
you like that sort of thing. Of course, bodging a cassette
like this with a bunch of cable ties means
it’s not going to move, so you can’t freewheel. So whatever you do is literally
a bodge so you can ride home really mellow on the pedals, but it’s got the added
advantage you’re turning your bike into a fixey. Maybe you’ve always wanted one. I know I haven’t. Given the nature of mountain
biking, you’re going to be riding on some pretty rough terrain, and it’s your wheels
that contact the ground and put up with all the abuse
that you’re going to dish out. So it’s not surprising, here and now, you’re going to break a spoke. What does that mean? Well, if you’ve got normal
spoked wheels and you got a lot of spokes, say 32, it’s not going to effect things too much
because you can balance out the spoke tension with a spoke key. But if you’re lucky enough
to own a really posh, lightweight set of wheels, you
can have as few spokes as 20, and if you missed one of those,
you can have quite effect on how the wheel works. So, how do you fix that? Easy, with a cable tie. Now I’ve seen someone
do this bodge recently, and I couldn’t believe how well it worked. So this is a pretty lightweight
wheel, as you can see the spokes are pretty spaced out. So I’ve got a broken spoke
here, so what that means is the two spokes on the
opposite side of that spoke and pulling the wheel
over quite significantly, enough, in fact, with this particular one to make the tyre buzz on the frame. Now I could sort of play
around with the tension, but you’re going to put
some hop in the rim, and it’s just going to
mess things up completely. First up, you want to get
rid of the bit of the spoke that just attaches to the hub. So in this case, it’s got to whittle out. There we go, so we won’t be needing that, put that in your riding pack for later. Now the section that’s
attached to the nipple here, we need this, and what
we’re going to need to do is, taking a multi-tool
with a pair of pliers on, or if you got a pair of pliers, use those, is bend this around into a hook. So that is the first step. So I’ve made the hook,
now what I’m going to do is hold this in place with cable ties, then, using cable ties,
going from this hook, going to meet that with the hub. And then I’m going to use
some cable ties on the hub to make sure our effective
new spoke is dished over as far as I can to make it pull from the correct side of the hub. And then that is going to
enable me to get back to base and replace the spoke when I get home. Next up is to go around the hub itself, I’m just going to pull one
through to where I want the spoke to be and pull from. And then I’ve got to join
this up to here, basically. So using the cable tie like this, you make a bit of a chain of them and it’s surprisingly strong. Okay so that’s a basic
principle of course, you can reinforce this
with a number of cable ties and get this as stiff as you’d like. But you’ll actually find that
this is a pretty helpful bodge because you’re going to
be able to get a tyre back through the frame without having to mess with the rest of the
cable tension on the bike, which means when you get
home, pretty much snip it off, pop in a new spoke, and you’re good to go. As far as bodges go, that’s got
to be a super bodge, surely. There’s nothing in the world more annoying when you’re out there biking
and getting a puncture. It’s still the problem that
still plagues a good ride. Okay, so picture this scenario. You’re miles from anywhere,
you’re on your own, so you’ve got no more inner tubes left, you’ve got a puncture, you’ve
totally destroyed the tyre, it’s got a big slash in
it, which means your stuck with one of three options. One of them, it’s a long walk. Second option, not very good, it’s going to cost you a bit
of money, ride home on the rim. Third option, boom, cable ties. Obviously in this case,
this is a brand new tyre, so don’t need to replace this, but what we’re talking about
here is you’ve just torn a big old hole in the tyre,
so it’s completely destroyed. So you can be able to
ride home on the tyre by holding it onto the
rim using the cable ties. If you don’t do that,
your tyre, at some point, is going to come off the rim. So it’s just a way of
keeping it on the rim, protecting your rim is going to get you to the nearest bike shop
we can pick up a tyre. Boom, bodge-tastic. Now of course this isn’t
the ideal solution. This is a bodge. It’s called a bodge because it is a bodge. It’s just to get you home. It’s nothing more than that. So you’re out shredding the trails, and you’re unlucky enough
to snag your shorts, and suddenly you’ve got this massive, gaping hole in your shorts. How do you fix it? Easy, cable ties. So this one does involve
being a bit sensible, you should probably take
your shorts off to do this, but I’m going to take a chance
here, and I’m just going to make a few nicks on either side, run some cable ties through like stitches, and then hopefully my shorts
will be complete again, and I’ll be able to just go and ride home without flapping all over the place. I just wanted to snip them off so they’re not flapping
around in the breeze. I’ll use these cable cutters
here but use whatever you can. If you’re using a knife,
obviously, be careful. There we go, good to go. I reckon I got at least another
half for the ride, you know? You’ve been shredding the
trails, your shoelace is undone, you snag it in the chainset,
the whole thing rips and tears. You’re left with a shoe
flapping around in the wind. What do you do about that? Boom, cable ties. There’s no need to waste
loads of cable ties, you don’t need to go every hole. Every other hole will suffice. Just pull them through, pull them as tight as you feel comfortable in your shoe. Snip off the ends. Yes, again, the cable tie proves its worth by replacing good,
old-fashioned shoelaces. Again, this is just a get-you-home hack, but it’s a pretty good one. You’re out shredding a singletrack, but you manage to catch
your peak on a low branch, and the worst thing that can
possibly happen, happens. You break your peak. So what do you do about that? You’re stuck with three choices, surely. One is you walk home, you do a Rob Warner, can’t possibly ride your
bike with a broken peak. Two, take the peak off, go bullet top. It’s aero anyway. Number three, cable ties. So, nice and simple, it’s the
same principle as the clothes, just make a few slots very carefully using your trailside
knife or your multi-tool. And then you want to run the cable ties through like stitches. Budged a few holes in here, going to run some cable ties through, join it back together. Simple bit of fiddling, you just got to whittle these through. Depending on what peak you use
and the different materials, some are easier to go through,
and some crack really easily. Obviously this one didn’t,
this is just a demonstration, this is a really old helmet. So we’re just using this
one for our example. And there you go, peak
back in working order, keeping the sun and the rain and bushes and stuff out of your eyes. Nicely hacked back together
there using cable ties. Although my bike has got
direct mount chainring, most bikes these days have
got regular chainrings that bolt on with chainring belts, just like this crankset here. As you can see in this particular one, a couple of bolts have rattled loose. What do you do about that? Simple, cable ties. So typically if you do
manage to lose a chainring, but with tense, it’d just be
the one as it rattled loose. But what normally happens
on a basis of that is that the other one is in
turn going to rattle loose. So the sooner you spot it, the better. Of course if you’ve got spare
ones in your riding pack, chuck a new one straight
in, crank it up tight and make sure they’re all
tight, you’re good to go. If not, cable ties is
a really good solution. If you lose more than one
bolt, what you want to do is take out the remaining chainring belt and put them sort of opposite
leaving opposite holes. So it just distributes
the force of it better. And then simply run cable
ties through the holes, crank them up tight. So there you go, that
simple, just replace a couple of chainring bolts using cable ties. Ofcourse the two remaining chainring bolts will take the bulk of the strain. Cable ties are there just to
keep the chainring in place. Hopefully some of my cable
tie-related hacks and bodges have been useful to you. But of course bear in mind
they are just hacks and bodges, they’re not permanent
solutions for fixing your bike. If you’ve got any great cable
tie-related hacks and bodges, I’d love to know, or if you’ve
got any better solutions, let us know in the comments below. In the meantime, if you want some hacks to make you faster, click down there. And if you want some hacks to
get you home, click up here. And of course, don’t forget to click on the globe in the middle, subscribe, because there’s a brand
new video every single day. And if you like my ten cable
tie hacks, give us a thumbs up!

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